Hustle Town Pizza: from the garage to the pop-up via the Mona Lisa

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Hustle Town Pizza’s pepperoni is named with Mike’s Hot Honey.

Sean Welch

Hustle Town Pizza is the result of chef Desmon Coleman’s tireless work ethic.

After attending cooking school in Southern California, Coleman walked into a terrific Italian restaurant in Los Angeles, Bestia, and applied for a job. What started out as a prep cook’s job – washing vegetables, making sauces, helping out in whatever way he could – eventually led to a more desirable spot on the line. His restlessness allowed him to work the hierarchy in several restaurants in LA

But after the pandemic, Coleman decided it was time to return to Texas. On his return, like many others, he tried his hand at barbecuing. While he’s pretty darn good at it, the small farmers market where he sold smoked meats just wasn’t enough to pay the bills. Once again, he found his way back into the restaurant scene. Between serving drinks at the Henry and the Yardbird Southern Table and Bar, two popular downtown Dallas spots, he saved enough money to buy a single Ooni pizza oven. From there, he started serving pizza in his garage on pre-order only. This is where we discovered him.

Click to enlarge Mona Lisa - SEAN WELCH

At first he only served two options. A white pie with kale, pecorino romano, ricotta and green onions and a more traditional pepperoni pie topped with Mike’s Hot Honey. His pizzas quickly caught the city’s attention and for a few good reasons; he uses high quality ingredients, his dough is made from a sourdough he brought back from San Francisco. Pair it with Caputo 00 flour and San Marzano tomatoes and you have a raised pie.

As his notoriety grew, he started doing pop-ups at Hop and Sting Brewing Co. in Grapevine, where he paired his pies with pit master Trey Sanchez from Vaqueros Bar-BQ. While we love collaborations, her pies are strong on their own.

Click to enlarge Birria Breast Pizza contains dollops of Vaqueros Bar-BQ Breast.  - SEAN WELCH

Birria Breast Pizza contains dollops of Vaqueros Bar-BQ Breast.

Sean Welch

During the year, his stable grew; it now has two Roccboxes, portable pizza ovens and offers a rotation of unique pizzas. The Bougie Papy pizza is topped with Italian sausage, mozzarella, garlic, San Marzano tomatoes and mushrooms. Although it is a gem, our favorite is its masterpiece: the Mona Lisa, which is covered with candied garlic, ricotta, mozzarella, thyme, shallots and garlic oil.

After a bite, it was easy to see why he had chosen the name. With these creations, he built a solid configuration. It’s now a staple on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays at Hop and Sting, and Fridays at Malone’s Pub in Fort Worth. The thing with Coleman and Hustle Town Pizza is that he really is a con artist. His culinary background prepared him for success, but his work ethic led to delicious results.

If the pizza wasn’t enough, it now serves beef brisket burgers as well, we recommend you get a pizza and a burger ASAP. Follow Hustle Town Pizza’s social media for the weekly menu.

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