What to expect from chef Akira Back’s gourmet menu for Vox cinemas

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The thought of waving chopsticks in the dark made me nervous, especially for the safety of those around me. However, I was relieved to find that canapes made by Korean-American chef Akira Back for Vox Cinemas are served with extra-large toothpicks, while main courses and desserts are served on oversized platters with forks and spoons.

These will be served at Vox Cinemas in Downtown Mirdif, Mall of the Emirates and Nakheel Mall in Dubai from September 26, and at Al Jimi Mall, Nation Towers, Galleria Al Maryah Island and Yas Mall in Abu Dhabi from October 10.

Since we eat with our eyes first, it is always an unusual experience to dine over a gourmet meal in a dark movie theater. For one thing, it doesn’t sound familiar at all. Despite the many options now available at the movies – from flavored popcorn and loaded nachos to butter chicken pizza and red velvet milkshakes – you always have a general idea of ​​what you’re about to taste before you go. put it in your mouth.

This is not the case with one-off dishes concocted by a chef renowned for his innovative flavor combinations and premium ingredients. Think nori dough, salmon belly aburi, and quail egg – so it’s not really a typical movie dish.

The a la carte menu is divided into starters, main courses and desserts, each of which must be ordered beforehand so that they can be brought directly to your seats once the show begins.

Ranging from Dh55 to Dh90, the small bites are a good mix of vegetarian and non-vegetarian options. These include: grilled romaine salad with herb yogurt dressing, aged balsamic and parmesan; salmon tataki with su-miso mustard sauce and picked wasabi; Creamy Compressed Spinach with Roasted and Striped Sesame Vinaigrette; vegan spider roll with enoki tempura, avocado, sweet soy and chipotle aioli; gray shrimp tempura with kochujang mayo and chives; and – Back’s personal favorite – crispy tofu with Korean chili glaze.

Tasty, if not exactly hearty, the entrees are representative of Back’s Korean-Japanese-American fusion style of cuisine – and the bite-size appetizers gourmet menus are known for. Seafood lovers will not regret tasting Akira Back pizza with umami aioli, micro shiso, white truffle oil and tuna.

The dishes are more generous. I try the Angry Chicken which, despite the name, comes with a mild sanpei sauce. Crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside, the dish is a godsend at Dh80.

At 90 Dh, the Mushroom Truffle Rice Clay Pot is also a treat for truffle lovers and is a bestseller at the chef’s eponymous restaurant at W Dubai – The Palm, where it is worth 135 Dh.

The gastronomic theme continues in the Dh45-a-pop dessert course; the AB Cigar (chocolate cigar with lucuma mousse) and AB Kiss (yuzu, sable crumble, strawberry gelato) were good to lick your fingers.

The menu will be available in the “Theater”, Vox’s luxury concept cinema – the one with reclining chairs, tray holders and plenty of storage on either side of the seats. I found it helpful to place my mocktail, served in a fancy martini glass, on a handkerchief rather than directly on the stand where the rapid condensation that sticks the glass and rubber together meant I dreaded dropping its sticky contents on my knees every time I chose to ride it.

And that’s the only problem I have – the constant fear of dribbling an invisible sauce or a sneaky cheesy grain of rice straight or, worse, into my shirt (although I guess it’s just as easy to ruin your clothes with a stuffed samosa or cream-filled donut).

It’s not for purist moviegoers either – the kind who don’t like their viewing pleasure to be interrupted for anything, even a gourmet meal. As efficient as they are, the staff naturally need to converse with diners, inform them of what they are about to eat, ask them if they have finished eating or if they need to. something else, and to repeat the muffled words if they are inaudible the first time.

For the rest of us happy movie buffs, the Akira Back menu certainly elevates the cinematic experience. Remember to put a paper towel on every inch of exposed clothing.

Updated: September 24, 2021, 04:27

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